Mokume Gane

Conch Pearl Brooch by Steve Midgett

Conch Pearl Brooch by Steve Midgett

Mokume Gane (pronounced Moe-koo-may Gah-nay) is an ancient Japanese metalworking technique, developed in feudal Japan by master swordsmiths. The name translates as "woodgrain metal," referring to one of the most popular patterns created to adorn samurai swords. It followed the development of Damascus Steel (layered iron alloys), created hundreds of years earlier. In the Mokume Gane process, layers of contrasting colored metals are fusion welded, using very high heat and pressure, into one solid block or billet of metal. The billet is then further manipulated by forging, twisting, and carving to expose multiple layers, in order to develop more and more complex patterns. Traditionally, Mokume Gane utilized copper, silver, and gold alloys. In the 1990s, STEVEN JACOB's co-founder, Steve Midgett, was the first to add platinum and palladium alloys to this list. He has more recently developed a groundbreaking technology that allows the use of many space-age metals like titanium, niobium, and tantalum, that cannot be worked by conventional means. This tireless search for the most outstanding, and beautiful combination of metals, and for the best techniques to bond and pattern them, is at the foundation of STEVEN JACOB design.

Having created a unique process for working with these materials, STEVEN JACOB has incredible control over the pattern, bringing out the best in each ring, to make it a unique work of art. Mokume rings offer the perfect symbol of marriage - of two different elements permanently bonded together as one. The metals used in each of our Mokume Gane rings are permanently forge welded together, then cut, twisted, and formed into a ring. After crafting the ring, they are acid etched to bring out the pattern of the metal and then given a lustrous matte finish. STEVEN JACOB's solid, Mokume rings utilize the finest non-corrosive metals. Our titanium and zirconium mokume bands are extremely inert and hypoallergenic. Our precious metal Mokume is made from high quality alloys and most importantly, do not contain layers of copper or predominantly copper alloys like brass, nickel silver, shakudo, or shibuichi. You can be confident that our rings will never corrode, rust, discolor, or de-laminate.

We make all of our rings right here in the USA and pride ourselves on our attention to detail. Great care is taken through each step of the process, from the bonding and forging of the Mokume material, to hand finishing each ring to perfection. Intentional design, uncompromising workmanship, advanced technology, and amazing ergonomics all add up to the creation of quality, durable rings that will fascinate and delight you for many, many years. You will not find a finer Mokume ring anywhere.